Color Theory for Permanent Makeup!

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Color theory is the study of how colors combine, complement, or contrast with each other. The primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. Primary colors cannot be created using any other colors. All additional colors can be created by mixing combinations of the primary colors, known as secondary and tertiary colors. Complementary colors are those situated directly opposite each other on the color wheel, such as red and green, orange and blue, or yellow and purple, and are often used in design to create harmony. When complementary colors are combined, they neutralize each other, resulting in tones of gray or brown as they mutually counterbalance.

In permanent makeup, color theory dictates how pigment colors interact with the undertones of our skin. Skin Color has nothing to do with Skin Undertone. While Skin Colors can be dark, medium, fair, or light, skin undertone can be cool, warm or neutral. 

The surface color of your skin is determined by the amount of melanin you have. The subtle hue below the surface is called the undertone and remains constant even with a tan. Cool-toned skin has pinkish undertones, while warm-toned skin has yellow or golden undertones. Neutral-toned skin has a combination of warm and cool undertones. 

In Permanent Makeup our skin serves as a filter, with warm or cool undertones influencing the appearance of the color seen through the skin's surface once fully healed. 

To better understand this concept, envision layering a red (warm) or blue (cool) film over brown on a white piece of paper and seeing how the brown color changes. Similarly, in permanent makeup, the color used during your initial session sitting on the surface of the skin shows up differently when sitting below the skin, when the skin's undertone which acts as a film is sitting over it. This concept utilizes the principles of color theory and the layering effect of either cool or warm skin undertones.

Permanent makeup pigment is applied to the surface of the skin. After the skin has healed, the pigment settles below the skin and may appear cooler (blue) or warmer (orange) due to the layering effect combining the skin undertone with the pigment used. Applying a warm pigment on warm skin can lead to reddish brows and applying a cool pigment on cool skin can lead to bluish brows.

To prevent this, pigment is modified by adding the complementary color on the color wheel to produce neutral shades. This helps balance any unwanted hues viewed through the skin. Most permanent makeup pigments come pre-modified to facilitate this process.

 There are 3 types of skin undertones. 

• Cool - displaying flushed pink, blue, or olive in their skin with blue veins
• Warm - displaying yellow, red, or caramel in their skin with green veins
• Neutral - mix of warm and cool in their skin with green and blue veins

Permanent makeup pigments come in a variety of compositions. Namely carbon, the main element in organic compounds, and iron oxide which is found in many natural beauty products like tinted sunscreen because it's non toxic and well tolerated by those with sensitive skin. In chemistry, the term organic refers to made with natural materials, while inorganic refers to lab-made materials such as mineral compounds which are sourced from natural materials but altered in a lab. Inorganic compounds offer more stability, predictability, consistency, and purity. 

Iron oxide is a lab developed inorganic ingredient which undergoes processing and refinement to ensure purity and consistency. The iron oxide particles are finely ground and suspended in a carrier solution, such as water or glycerin to create tattoo inks. Iron oxide tattoo inks are favored for their stability and resistance to fading over time. They are known for producing rich, opaque colors that remain vivid for years. 

Carbon is an organic natural material mainly found in the earth's crust deposited on the ocean floor. It is one of the most abundant elements found in nature and the main element in organic compounds. Carbon is commonly used in tattoo ink to create shades of black and gray. Carbon black is a finely ground powder derived from carbonized organic materials mixed with a carrier solution, usually consisting of water, alcohol, or glycerin, to create tattoo ink. Carbon inks have been around for centuries in the tattoo industry.

INORGANIC - Iron oxide based pigments 

• developed in a lab
• fades faster
• more stable color
• heals warmer
• easier to remove
• heals very natural
• made of larger size particles
• has lower risk of migration

ORGANIC - Carbon based pigments 

• made of natural materials
• lasts longer - good for eyeliner
• less stable color
• heals cooler
• less predictable
• harder to remove
• made of smaller molecules that can migrate easily
• often used in body tattoos

Permablend has developed a hybrid pigment that combines both organic and inorganic materials to create a versatile range of colors. Blending tattoo inks ensures consistency and quality providing more reliable results. Permablend pigments contain titanium dioxide, an inorganic compound as a bonding agent, to achieve brighter colors, and a smoother application for the artist.

The main ingredients are a combination of glycerin, witch hazel, aqua, rosin, benzyl alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol. These pigments are gamma ray sterilized, vegan, and cruelty-free. These colors have all been tested by the CTL and pass the stringent tests described in Resolution ResAP(2008)1.

Permablend has a thorough and well documented website with all the information needed for those concerned about pigments or pigment ingredients. Each specific color can be searched in their parent company, World Famous Tattoo Ink's, Safety Data Sheet portal eBinder. Colors are searched by the name of the color. There are also color charts with information on formulations for all colors on the PermaBlend website. 

There are two formulas used to make up tattoo inks and pigments, either carbon based, an organic element or iron oxide based an inorganic element formulated in a lab which is more stable. Carbon based is only recommended for more experienced artists as the risk of migration is greater due to smaller molecular size which can travel below the skin. Pigment migration refers to the movement of tattoo pigment beyond the intended area of application. Iron oxide pigments, made up of larger particles, sit closer to the surface of the skin creating less risk of color migration. Iron oxide is often used in natural makeup products, such as tinted sunscreen, as its non toxic and well tolerated by those with sensitive skin. 

Why is orange added to black eyeliner tattoo ink? 

Skin undertone impacts the final color of tattooed eyeliner seen through the skin after permanent makeup is healed. To ensure that black eyeliner stays true to color, black pigment is pre-modified with orange to counterbalance undertones. The color seen on the skin's surface is not the same as the color seen below the surface once healed. Orange is selected as it is the opposite of blue on the color wheel. Colors opposite each other neutralize or cancel each other out. Blue applies as the skin's undertone. For example, blood is red and the veins containing our blood appear blue or green. The skin's undertone acts as a filter causing red blood to appear blue or green below the surface of the skin due to skin undertones. Similarly, the skin's undertone will cause the black eyeliner to appear blue if it's not counterbalanced by modifying it with orange. 

Lipstick colors appear differently on each person based on their skin's undertone. The key is finding the right color to balance unwanted undertones. Color is chosen by calculating the existing color and the outcome you would get by combining it with another color. Lighter colors may not appear on darker lips. Dark-toned lips must be lightened before applying a lighter color. This process is called dark lip neutralization and follows the principles of color theory. 

To neutralize dark toned lips, an orange, peach, or salmon shade is used as the counterpart on the color wheel. Multiple applications are usually required. When the darker tones are cancelled out with a shade of orange, and mostly eliminated, a lighter color can be applied successfully. 

Dark tones may show through until this process is complete making the lips appear darker before they look lighter.