Permanent makeup pigment explained.
Color theory under the skin.
Knowing what color to choose for good long term healed results is crucial when choosing a color for permanent makeup.
With our skin acting as a film, the color presented once the skin has fully healed, is the color appearing through that film. When the color is initially applied, it appears differently on the surface than when sitting below surface after fully healed. Take into consideration skin undertone + color applied = healed result.
Brown paint on a white surface appears neutral. Brown paint on a white surface with a blue or red film placed over, appears warm brown or cool brown. In order to achieve a neutral brown working with skin undertones, the opposite color on the color wheel is used to counter unwanted hues. Many newer pigment lines come with colors already pre modified.
Cold colors contain green. Neutral colors are balanced, and warm colors contain red.
In general, most people heal on the cooler side as our blood is red, but our veins are blue or green. We rarely modify colors to be cooler. True redheads are always warm and require a cooled toned color to neutralize. Using a red based color on a redhead will result in orange looking brows.
The 3 skin undertone categories include:
- Cool (flushed pink, olive, blue, or grey undertones with blue veins)
- Warm (yellow, red, peachy, golden, caramel undertones with green veins)
- Neutral (mix of warm and cool with green and blue veins)
To determine an undertone look at the darkest most obvious vein. If it is blue, you are cool. If it is green, you are warm. Eye color also helps to determine undertones. Those with brown or hazel eyes are usually warm toned, and blue or greyish eyes are usually cool toned.
Watch the video to fully understand skin undertones.
Why do colors fade to red and blue?
- depth is incorrect.
- over modification.
Organic vs inorganic
Carbon or iron oxide based pigment
Most permanent makeup artists use a combination of organic and inorganic pigments. In food, when we say organic, we are referring to zero pesticides. In chemistry when we say organic, we are referring to the material coming from organic matter versus developed in a lab.
Carbon-based pigments are considered organic.
- Carbon based pigments heal cooler.
- Carbon based pigments are hard to remove.
- Carbon based pigments are made up of small molecules and can migrate easily.
- Carbon is often used in body tattoos.
Iron Oxide pigments are considered inorganic.
- Iron oxide is synthetically made in a lab.
- Iron oxide pigments heal warmer.
- Iron oxide pigments fade faster.
- Iron oxide pigments are easier to remove than carbon based.
- Iron oxide pigments are made of larger particles and sit closer to the surface of the skin.
- Iron Oxide pigments have lower risk of migration.
- Iron oxide is an ingredient found in many natural makeup products.
Hybrid Pigments
- Hybrid pigments contain both organic and inorganic elements.
- Inorganic pigments, iron oxide based, have warmer hues over time.
- Organic pigments, carbon based have cooler hues over time.
- Combining organic and inorganic help to maintain balance keeping the colors more stable long term. Permablend is a good example of hybrid pigments.
Titanium dioxide is an inorganic compound, meaning synthetically made in a lab, and used as a bonding agent in many pigments.
What's in eyeliner pigment?
Types of black for eyeliner tattoo.
Two types of black ink can be used for eyeliner tattoos. Carbon based or iron oxide based. Carbon based is only recommended for more experienced artists. The color looks darker and bolder yet there is a greater risk of color migration due to smaller molecule size. Iron oxide tends to sit on the surface more and has less risk of migration but will fade faster.
To ensure that black stays true to color without turning blue under the skin, the color is pre-modified with orange to counter one's cool undertones. Our skin is like a filter. What we see on top is not what we see once it sits below. Just like our blood is red but our veins appear blue or green. The color applied will be seen in combination with the skin's undertone once fully healed, therefore must be pre modified to stay true to color.
Dark lip neutralization!
Lipstick will never look the same on two different people!
Light colors will not show up well on darker lips. Dark lips are lightened using a contrasting color. For example, lips with purple tones can be neutralized with an orange-peachy color. Darker lips require more color applications than lighter lips.
Neutralization process
- The first color application will be neutralizing the color to counter darker tones usually with an orange, peach, or salmon color.
- The second application will either lighten more or go straight for the desired color.
- The last application with be only with the desired color once the natural lip color is light enough to cover successfully.
Dark toned lips often look darker before looking lighter. This is because as the pigment travels and settles into the skin, the darker tones show up. Once the color settles it neutralizes again.
%20(1)-0001.png/:/cr=t:32.44%25,l:0%25,w:100%25,h:35.11%25/rs=w:1209,h:549,cg:true)
Red Carpet Luxury Spa 🌹
SPECIAL OFFER - Free tanning every Tuesday - appointment required. (one per customer)